Lead Climbing Test

Lead Climbing Test**

 

About the Certification

 

Lead climbing is for members who already know how to top rope climb and want to expand on their skillset. This certification will allow you to lead climb at all partnered GCA climbing gyms.

 

Test

 

To become GCA Lead Climbing certified, the following test must be passed at any GCA partnered gym:

 

Equipment

• Climber must have a UIAA/CE certified sit type harness with a belay loop that is less than 5 years old and has no signs of excessive wear
• Only UIAA/CE approved dynamic single ropes are allowed

– Rope less than 5 years old

– Regularly inspected according to manufacturer

Pre-Climb Checks

• Rope is flaked to check for inconsistencies such as soft spots, cuts, or knots
• Belayer must not weigh less than 70% of the climber. If more, Edelrid OHM required for first clip.
• Pockets are empty of phones and items
• Full gear check for excessive wear
• Check harness is on correctly (double backed, properly fitting above hips, legs through leg loops, no twists, shirt tucked in)
• Tie a stopper knot in the end of the rope
• Rope is looped through both hard points on harness correctly
• Use a figure 8 follow through knot with 5 sets of 2 parallel lines
• Figure 8 knot has 3-6 inches of tail. If more use finisher knot
• Figure 8 knot is ~3 inches away from tie-in points

Partner Check

• Belayer’s harness is on correctly (double backed, properly fitting above hips, legs through leg loops, no twists, shirt tucked in)
• Belayer’s device is loaded and oriented correctly to the diagrams
• Belayer’s carabiner is locked
• Belayer’s carabiner is attached correctly to the belay device
• Belayer’s carabiner is correctly connected to the belay loop
• Belayer’s gate is facing away from brake hand
• Use climbing commands to communicate beginning of climbing

During Climb

• Climber must not back clip or z-clip and climb past it
• Climber must not skip any clips
• Climber must not put themselves between the wall and the rope
• Climber must not stick their hand in hanging quickdraws or bolts
• Climber must not have their hand exposed to open quickdraw when clipping rope
• Climber must not jump away from wall during unannounced test fall
• Climber must communicate to belayer when they wish to take

Lowering

• Climber must communicate to belayer when they wish to be lowered
• Climber must remain in a seated position leaning back until they reach the ground